As an American who has lived in Italy and visits frequently, I have always loved the challenges of driving there, which is good because my husband and kids refuse to do it!
Renting a car will give you the freedom to explore at your own pace, however, don’t expect it to be anything like driving at home. Also, when you’re weighing your options, remember that Italy has a great high-speed rail network that will get you between cities faster than road travel will.
Here’s what we like our clients to know when they are considering renting a car in Italy.
The Pros: Why Driving in Italy Can Enhance Your Trip
Freedom and Flexibility Driving gives you complete control over your itinerary. For me, I often want to detour to meet a new supplier in the countryside, and a day that starts with 2 appointments can end up with 5. For you, it could be the freedom to stay longer in places that enchants you, or to discover new places.
Access to Hidden Gems Real hidden gems that aren’t full of tour groups are not in urban centers and are difficult to reach by public transportation. If you’ve been to Italy before and have seen the main sites, a car will give you access to a wealth of new experiences.
Visiting the South When clients tell us they want to visit Puglia, Calabria, Basilicata or Sicily, one of our first questions is ‘are you willing to rent a car?’. In these places, driving is essential, especially for people wanting to explore their ancestral villages.
Scenic Routes Sometimes the journey is the whole point and Italy boasts some of Europe’s most breathtaking drives to be sure. While Italy’s train network is extensive, it doesn’t reach across Tuscany or into the Dolomites, the only way to see these wonderful places is on the road.
Cost Effectiveness If you’re traveling with family or a group of friends, splitting car rental and gas costs is often cheaper than multiple train tickets, especially for longer distances. Driving also allows you to cut accommodation costs by staying outside urban centers.
The Cons: When Driving in Italy Gets Challenging
Parking While driving in Italy has many benefits, trying to park can be frustrating. Car parks are tiny and usually full. Parking spaces on the street are often unofficially patroled by men who point to a free space, then demand you pay them to keep an eye on your car.
Urban Driving Stress Italian cities, particularly Rome, Naples, and Florence, feature chaotic traffic and aggressive drivers. People aren’t really angry, but if you aren’t used to it and don’t know that the shouting and gesticulating are part of the game, it can be quite frightening. There has been a recent increase in the number of one-way systems which can force you to drive away from your intended destination, adding to the confusion.
ZTL Zones (Limited Traffic Zones) Most Italian city centers have ZTL zones where only authorized vehicles can enter. This basically means residents or private drivers with a permit. In some places, these zones aren’t active all the time so you need to keep an eye out for the electronic signs that can easily be missed to know when it is in effect. Accidentally driving inside the ZTL results in hefty fines, even for tourists who claim ignorance.
Aggressive Driving Culture Italian driving culture is notably more assertive than American norms. Expect tailgating, frequent horn usage, the random creation of new lanes, and drivers who view traffic laws as suggestions rather than rules. When driving on the highway, keep an eye on your GPS for upcoming speed cameras and be prepared for everyone around you to suddenly slow down as they pass it.
Narrow Roads and Tight Spaces Medieval towns have narrow streets built for horses and carts, not modern vehicles. If you want to drive, choose a small vehicle, rather than something big and fun. Don’t be surprised to encounter impossibly tiny roads where two cars can barely pass, tight parking spaces and bridges where you can’t see the other side.
Driving Stick One of the things I love about driving in Europe is the chance to drive stick. If you don’t feel the same, be very careful when you book your rental car. The majority of rentals in Italy are manual and you’ll want to book well in advance to be sure you get an automatic.
Where Driving in Italy Makes Sense
Tuscany As far as driving in Italy goes, Tuscany is fairly easy-going. Distances between towns aren’t long, and the scenery is spectacular. Don’t waste your time on the boring A1 or ‘Autostrada del Sole’ (Highway of the Sun), the straight road that takes northerns to the sunnier south, as you won’t see anything. Plan a route through the heart of the region, where roads wind slowly between the rolling hills and you’ll discover vineyards and isolated churches as you go.
The Dolomites and South Tyrol If you want to spend any time exploring the Dolomites, a car (or driver) is a must. Fortunately, the region’s Germanic influence means more orderly traffic and better adherence to traffic laws than you’ll find elsewhere. Road conditions are good and the Alpine scenery is unbeatable.
Puglia Italy’s heel is attracting attention among travelers who feel Tuscany has been overrun by mass tourism, but it’s hard to visit without a car. Driving itself isn’t too bad, though the quality of the roads varies greatly between provinces the further south you go. Inland, be prepared to find yourself driving for a long time without passing a gas station or anywhere to stop.
Calabria You can (slowly) get from the top of the region to Sicily by train along the coast, but any plans to go inland will require a car. Expect small mountainous roads with blind bends and stunning views.
Sicily While challenging due to local driving habits, Sicily rewards brave drivers with access to ancient ruins, pristine beaches, and traditional villages which cannot be reached by rail.
Where to Avoid Driving
Rome There are lots of places you can’t drive in Rome, many hotels don’t offer parking and sitting in traffic is common, especially while the central Piazza Venezia is partially closed for the next decade while a new metro line is being built (yes, you read that correctly! It takes a long time to document everything when digging through the center of the ancient city.). If you need a car for the next stage of your trip, it’s easy to pick one up at Termini Station before you leave.
Naples Neapolitan driving operates under a logic that only locals can understand, and the result appears chaotic. Lightning reflexes and a thorough understanding of the one-way system are a must. Personally, we opt for walking or local drivers when we’re in Naples.
Venice If you didn’t know, driving in Venice is not an option. You have to leave your car in the parking structure on the edge of the island, which costs €29 a day. We strongly recommend arriving in Venice by train. The station is on the Grand Canal and you can hop straight on a water bus or river taxi. It’s easy to take the train one stop to Mestre and pick up a rental when you’re leaving.
Florence The historic center is small and largely pedestrianized, with limited parking and numerous complicated ZTL areas. Florence is another place we suggest arriving by train, visiting on foot and picking up a rental near the train station as you leave.
Amalfi Coast Absolutely breathtaking but not for nervous or impatient drivers. The famous coastal road is surprisingly narrow, one lane in each direction. Add to that the hairpin turns, steep drops, and heavy traffic during peak season, making it a stressful driving route. We prefer to engage a private driver, arrive by boat or go in low season.
Legal Requirements and Considerations
International Driving Permit (IDP) Americans need an International Driving Permit before traveling. You cannot get one while in Italy, but it’s easy to get. I got my IDP through AAA. I made an appointment, paid $20 and got it on the spot. To pick up your rental, you’ll need both your IDP and your valid U.S. driver’s license.
Insurance Requirements Rental cars include basic third-party liability insurance, but coverage levels may be lower than you’re used to. Consider purchasing comprehensive coverage through your rental agency or verify coverage through your credit card company (I use my Chase Sapphire card).
Age and Experience Requirements Drivers usually need to be at least 21 years old to rent a car, though costs are usually higher for younger drivers.
Traffic Violations and Fines Fines are not cheap, and rental agencies will charge your credit card for violations weeks or even months after your trip. Common violations include speeding, entering ZTL zones, and parking illegally.
Fuel and Toll Roads Gas prices in Italy are significantly higher than in the United States. Currently you can expect to pay around $2 a litre in Italy. Then there are the highway tolls and parking fees, which all quickly adds up.
Wine Tasting One of the most popular activities in the Italian countryside is visiting vineyards, but make sure not to overindulge. To keep below the blood alcohol limit in Italy of 0.5, do as the Italians do and eat with alcohol. When I’m visiting wineries, I leave the car at home and book an experienced local driver.
Essential Tips for Driving in Italy
Inspect the Vehicle Make a careful inspection of the vehicle before you leave and photograph any damage to the car. Bumps and scratches are not unusual, and you’ll want to be sure you aren’t charged for pre-exisiting damage.
Navigation and GPS Download offline maps before your trip, as cell service can be spotty in rural areas. Rent a GPS device or ensure your phone’s international data plan covers Italy. Italian road signs can be confusing, with multiple destinations listed for single routes.
Parking Strategies In cities, look for supervised parking garages rather than street parking. Blue lines indicate paid parking, white lines are free but rare in city centers, and yellow lines are reserved for residents or disabled parking.
Highway Etiquette The left lane on Italian highways is strictly for passing. Move right after overtaking, as drivers behind you will flash their lights and tailgate if you don’t. Speed limits are enforced by cameras, and fines are substantial.
Roundabout Rules Italy features numerous roundabouts, where traffic already in the circle has right-of-way. Signal your exit intentions clearly, and don’t be surprised by aggressive merging from other drivers.
Emergency Procedures Keep your rental agreement, insurance documents, and passport easily accessible. In case of an accident, contact the Carabinieri (112) and your rental agency immediately. Never admit fault, even if you believe you caused the accident.
Should you drive in Italy?
Do I think the benefits outweigh the headache?
Driving in Italy has certainly worked for me. It has allowed me to see amazing, hard-to-reach places and wake up in the mountains surrounded by nature. It’s also given me (with hindsight) no end of funny stories😅
Do I think it’s the right choice for you? It’s your vacation and your choice, but consider these questions before you decide:
- Is this your first trip to Italy? If so, I would suggest using trains and drivers. This will take almost all the stress out of moving around.
- Have you driven abroad before? Are you used to country lanes and aggressive city drivers? If not, your hard earned vacation may not be as relaxing as you hoped.
Buon viaggio 🚙
